Tommy Huang

an afternoon at the autumn Mashiko pottery fair

This is a belated post about my trip to Japan in the fall of 2025.

For a long time, a ceramist friend of mine had been telling me amazing stories about her time in Mashiko, so when I finally booked my trip to Japan I knew it was a must visit for me.

Mashiko is a well-known pottery town located in Tochigi Prefecture, just a couple hours away from Tokyo by train. Twice a year, the town of Mashiko comes together to hold one of Japan’s largest pottery fairs with over 500 tents and even more local artists, artisans, and food vendors.

A tiny fraction of the tents at the market. There were vendors in practically every corner of the town, which is quite small
A large pot greets you at the Mashiko train station, which was about a 20-minute walk from the entrance to the pottery fair. The sign reads "Mashiko Public Heritage Site / No. 9 Mashiko Station"

By chance, their autumn fair and my trip just happened to overlap, so I made my way from Tokyo to spend the day there (after a few hours and some adrenaline-filled train transfers).

While my time in Japan up to that point had been mostly quiet and reflective, being at the fair was a welcome change. And being in a place with such a rich history of pottery and folk art, the ceramics did not disappoint. There were tents packed into every square, corner, and alley, and seas of pots that were traditional, contemporary, and sculptural, all side by side. I allowed myself three pottery purchases, a rule I ended up breaking very quickly.

An impressive kiln at the Mashiko Museum of Ceramic Art, conveniently located next to the pottery fair
Poster for the autumn pottery fair. As you can see it's only for a few days so I was quite lucky to be there for it
Maybe the best fall colors I got from my trip in early November. Next time I'll have to see if I can go a bit later for even more dramatic reds
Handbuilt pieces displayed with kokedama
Traditional nerikomi (laminated clay) work
There was a huge range of styles to look at
Little haniwa figurines

But the highlight of my little trip was the people that I met there. I stopped a few times to chat at a tent shared by Venice Aka, Narita Soei, and Mr. and Mrs. Ogata. There, I also met Yong—a Thai ceramist who lived in Mashiko previously, but is now based in Tokyo—who kindly decided to be my tour guide. She showed me to the local pottery studio she used to work at, the fall colors of a nearby pond, and introduced me to her friends who were vending all over town.

Student works-in-progress from Yong's old studio
One of a few kilns at the studio
One of a set of five tiles depicting the traditional pottery process in Mashiko
Yong shared a funny story with me that this hat we saw next to the tiles had been sitting here since she moved away from Mashiko over a month ago

Later, I went back to Mr. and Mrs. Ogata to ask if they’d like to trade with one of my translucent porcelain nerikomi bowl I brought with me, and they generously offered three pieces in return.

By late afternoon, the light had gone golden and the vendors were beginning to wrap their pieces carefully back into newspaper and cloth. Watching the fair wind down had its own quiet pleasure–the same hands that had thrown and glazed and fired everything on display now tucking it all away again, loading kilns-worth of work into the backs of vans. After both Yong and I said our goodbyes to the other vendors, we decided to head back to Tokyo together.

Thank you to everyone I met there for making my time in Mashiko so memorable, and I hope I can come back to Japan to visit soon.

The three pieces I received in my trade with Mr. and Mrs. Ogata
Yong, myself and Mrs. Ogata trading work
Mrs. Ogata and Venice
The potters of Mashiko and beyond packing up their pottery stands as the moon rises early in the evening

Yong and I on our way back to Tokyo